Oh, you’re going to Moab? How original. So is every vanlifer with a Patagonia sponsorship and half the college kids west of the Mississippi. Congrats—you’re about to experience traffic jams… at the base of a climb.
But hey, there’s a reason this place is a circus. The climbing’s outrageous. The towers look fake. The splitters make you feel like you’re in a commercial for hand tape. And yes, it’s all worth the chaos—if you can survive the dust, the crowds, and your own ego.
Indian Creek: The Disney World of crack climbing. Perfect splitters for miles. You’ll cry, bleed, and post about it like you just summited K2.
Castle Valley: Home to Castleton Tower, the prom queen of desert towers. You want the shot? Earn it, sweetheart—this climb will remind you that sandstone doesn’t care about your feelings.
Potash Road: Roadside routes so close you can belay from your tailgate. For people who want to “experience the desert” without all that pesky hiking or cardio.
Fall weather in Moab is perfection. Cool temps, sticky friction, golden sunsets—it’s climbing nirvana. Which is exactly why the place turns into a human zoo every October. Festivals, parties, and 37 people fighting over the same five-star crack. May the odds be ever in your favor.
Tape your hands or donate them to science. Sandstone eats skin for breakfast.
Start early unless you enjoy waiting in line behind a bachelor party on lead.
Embrace the sand. It’s in your shoes. It’s in your car. It’s in your soul now.
Moab will beat you up, steal your chalk, and laugh while you whimper on lead. But when you’re driving home—sunburned, bruised, and strangely proud—you’ll realize you loved every second of it.
Want someone else to lead the sketchy pitches while you take the glory photos? Book a guide. They’ll keep you alive, show you the good stuff, and maybe even teach you how to jam without looking like you’re wrestling an angry badger.
ABOUT THE BREEZE:
The Breeze is a visionary leader in the noble art of reminding others how small they are, The Breeze has conquered more podium conversations than pitches. His hobbies include eliminating yoga, narrating his own greatness, and being “God’s gift to climbing."